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Hi, E3D here. We need to talk to you about groovemount.
TL;DR:
Groovemount is okay, but it's a hangover from when 3D printers were made in sheds. They aren’t any more, so we’re offering an alternative, using screw threads. If you think this would suit your printer better you can buy one here (1.75mm, suitable for bowden or direct systems).
We’d also really like to get your feedback. Establishing a standard is not something that should be taken lightly. In order to create a healthy enduring standard we want to consult and involve the whole community.
If you want to know more about the issues with groovemount and why we’re offering a threaded alternative, read on.
What’s the problem?
Here at E3D we’ve used always used groovemount on our HotEnds as the means of attachment. It's been the standard way to mount a HotEnd on a printer since the makergear standard was introduced. When introduced, it was intended for attaching a HotEnd to a piece of laser cut wood (an application that isn’t especially common any more). It’s a method well-suited to making prototypes as it needs a minimum of skills and lathing tools, but it does have a few issues:
- Relying on 2 parts that simply push together requires that the parts are really precisely made. Even slight variation can result in a poor fit, with heat sinks that are either hard to push into a bracket or that wobble around during printing. We do our best to avoid this by using good machinists and doing random spot checks, but it’s still an issue we’d like to eliminate completely.
- Mounting brackets can wear down from repeated removal and replacement of the HotEnd, leading to a once well-fitting HotEnd becoming wobbly.
While these issues don’t make groovemount unusable, we think it might be time for a new approach.

The solution
We’ve thrown around a few ideas, but one that we’d like to take forward is a little… screwy. And by that we mean that we’ve put a screw thread on to the top of the heatsink. It’s hardly a candidate for the hackaday prize, we know, but by god it is just so much better! Using a screw thread has several advantages.
- They can be very reliably and repeatably machined and quality controlled.
- They wear incredibly slowly, so you can take out the hotend, tinker and replace as much as you want and the hotend will still be held securely.
- We think threads give you more versatility in mounting options, giving you the choice of mounting through a plate of any thickness you want (up to 5 mm) or screwing into a 3d printed socket (tapped or printed threads).
Some data about the parts:
- Identical performance to standard heatsinks
- Uses M12x1.5 thread for the main thread (this could change depending on feedback)
- Same overall height as a standard heatsink
We’ve already done some alpha testing, and there are threaded V6 heat sinks being put to the test out in the wild. Check out David Crocker’s PCB delta printer, which has been using this HotEnd for a while now.
However, we sadly don’t have every type and make of 3D printer available in-house to test our new mounting solution on, and that’s where you come in.
We need you!
We are releasing this product in beta (1.75mm only, suitable for bowden or direct systems), and want to hear from you the user how you want to mount your HotEnds . We’ve chosen threads as we think they are a versatile solution and translate well to manufacture but are open to more suggestions. Use the hashtag #screwyV6 on Twitter to tell us what you think, or feel free to message us on Facebook!
I’d like to beta test one too please.
I'm bachelor in mechanical engineer and I'm developing big 3D printers for fast acceleration rate.
I think this is a good direction in extruder mounting, but I think that vibrations can cause a fail with this system. I don't know how much is the threaded part, but probably using a nylon lock nut or a double nuts solution, this problem maybe produce less failing/problems.
I think the thread M12x1.5 is good, in particular because is the same of inductive sensors, that are using in a large number of printers.
Sorry for my english, and congratulations for your job, in particular in R&D.
Regards,
Francesco Pollina
Posjedujem 6 3d pisača i trenutno sam u izradi sedmog. Jedna delta, 2 xy inteligentna jezgra, jedan prusa -vi su...
Posjedujem 6 3d pisača i trenutno sam u izradi sedmog. Jedna delta, 2 xy inteligentna jezgra, jedan prusa -vi su...
Više
I own 6 3d printers and I'm currently making the seventh. One delta, 2 xy intelligent core, one prusa - are DIY. Purchased 2 Vell...
Više
Hi,
I own 6 3d printers and I'm currently making the seventh. One delta, 2 smartrapcore, one big prusa -all are DIY. Purchased 2 Velleman k8200 and the Ultimaker 2 extended in production. It would be a good idea to try out your innovations.
Thnx in advance
My hotend likes to spin around a bit, and it makes keeping the wiring neat and tidy almost impossible!
However with this implementation, I'm finding it difficult to imagine how it is going to integrate with just 3d printed parts (let's be honest, if we can get away without using extra hardware, we will!) and if it starts to come loose, isn't that going to slightly lower the nozzle height, which could spell for some very messy prints!
Excited to see you guys start to mix up your classic bit of design though, maybe you can look at remote direct drive extruders next ;)
Anyways, I'm nobody, not really looking to beta, just making an observation.
One concern I may have is fully constraining the hotend in its mounting hole, as well as preventing rotation. Perhaps going with a longer collar above the lip, maybe 3mm tall, to provide better locating within the hole. Giving this a slight chamfer and removing that lip may work better, although it would increase the cost and complexity of required mounting plates so maybe its best to just keep it simple and not perfectly constrained. The best way to prevent rotation would probably be to supply low profile M12 nylon locking nuts along with the hotend, allowing users to keep high tension at all times and reduce the chance of a slip. Alternatively, adding a vertical groove (or many) in the collar mentioned previously could optionally be used by manufacturers looking to ensure the hotend is locked and will not rotate, but will not affect others who don't care and don't want to bother putting a locating groove in their carriage.
I look forward to seeing what E3D comes up with in the future. And if E3D ever needs products tested, I'd be happy to help ;)
I have a he3d k200 and I am making modifications so that hotend is higher and to gain a few cm on the z axis
I like this concept and would like to give this a try, i think it can be a game changer, let me know how to get this, thanks in advance
A bayonet mount is superior in this regard. Camera manufacturers long ago made the move from screw mounts to bayonet mounts to achieve consistent z alignment (in their case for focus reasons).
Please consider a bayonet mount. If you were to sell BOTH the hotend and the bayonet ring plate (with screw holes for mounting it), it would be easy for printer manufacturers to incorporate it in to their designs.
I am currently building a semi large CoreXY and was looking fo an improved mounting system for the hotend similar to this So glad you are thinking of putting them into general distribution.
Could you add me to the Beta list please.
Doug
Just machine parallel flat sides on two or three of the cooling fins wouldn't affect the cooling, would it?
What if the carriage is made of a less than super rigid material (eg it's 3d-printed) and so the constructor wants to make it a little thicker? Will there be enough length on the heatsink shaft to allow this (given thick nut)?
Is the nut sufficiently self-locking or are two required?
Will there be a spanner supplied for the nut?
Will the need for spanner interventions from above allow a wide range of carriage designs?
Also, as noted, either flats or some type of pin drive to allow fixing the heatsink in place while tightening would be beneficial, though a properly setup keying could accommodate that functionality.
I like the concept. I have a pile of your gear and enjoy seeing these innovations, even if it means I have to buy more gear, haha!
Perhaps a good compromise would be to machine a flat onto the threaded area. The user would then have the option to simply insert the headsink into a round hole (with a flat) and then tighten a setscrew to lock it in place. This controls Z height and orientation...
In general, I'm a big fan of the 'old school' groovemount - it's simple and it just works.
Also, I'd like to echo Andrew DeGonge's comment about the screw connection becoming loose: a mounting point with a nylon insert should be fine, but then the problem would become screwing it in to the correct torque without denting the side of the heatbreak with a wrench!
After four years (daily) printing with delta printers - this solution is my first choice ... congratulation - well done
https://www.bostjancadez.art/sites/default/files/2018-02/IMG_1745.JPG
https://www.bostjancadez.art/sites/default/files/2018-02/IMG_1746.JPG
The only disadvantage is a little engineering is required to select the right size, material, vendor etc. and you probably need to provide the washers so the user doesn't have to source them. Be careful of supplier. Some provide washers with incorrect geometry or especially weak materials that don't spring back correctly.
While you're at it could we have some kind of connector that uses standard crimps (so we can assemble each side) and handles heater, thermistor and fan all neat and together? Again so that we can shift the complete hotend in/out easily.
Probably some thought went into the 12.5 thread, but seems like M12 is bog standard easy to get for us DIY end users? Also (not sure about the measurements here) seems like the current mount is 12mm so if you matched that people would have easier time putting into the old style mounts?
But again, I dont build printers anymore, so my opinion doesent count much.
* Use the more standard M12x1.75 thread to make easier to use the heatsink in conjunction with other components more readily available or easier to source.
* Add two flats to be able to screw the heatsink with a wrench.
Interesting advancements, keep up with the good work.
Bayonet mount would indeed be ultra precise, guess it depends on the level of "slop" we could live with. Personally I think it would be overkill.
Also it's obviously ~way~ more costly and much harder for the hobbyists / low cost communities to design and build mounts so it's probably a non-starter.
I had an idea that occurred regarding the "cut a flat for a wrench / spanner on the fins" idea. Also obviously a good idea, but does add machining / cost.
What if instead you use this low tech solution - included with every HotEnd a small square or rectangular silicone rubber sheet to wrap around the fins for grip. I'd say about 1.5mm thick so it's nice and cushy. Cost would be negligible, I can get a 12" square here in the US for $1. You could even use company colors ;-) ...
Love, love, LOVE you're trying to hammer out a standard. It's time 3D printing grew up a bit. Would be willing to beta as well.
Bob from the US
A cuboid based heatsink is a much better approach. And you already have one - the chimera/cyclops heatsink. This allows direct mounting, easy attachment of a fan (without using an adapter), and a slide-in heat break.
So what I think you should do is produce a variant of the chimera/cyclops heatsink that is designed for a single extruder. (This would also make it easier for users to upgrade to dual extrusion.)