E3D Help Centre

Summary

• Max Printing Temperature: 300°C
• Mass: 30g
• Temperature sensor type: thermistor, Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G
• Motor voltage: 12V or 24V
• Wattage: 40W
• Filament Diameter: 1.75mm

Performance Characteristics

• Maximum ambient printing temperature (PLA): 40°C
• Lowest temperature rated component: Fan 70°C

Mounting Guide

• Mounting type: screw thread (M12x1.5). Depth 5mm.
• Minimum plate thickness: 1mm
• Maximum plate thickness: 5mm

Final Calibration

• Plug in and turn on your Prusa Mini. Click on 'Calibration', then go to 'Self test'.
  Please note, when heating up your Revo for the first time, you may notice small amounts of smoke coming from the nozzle. This is just residue burning off and is nothing to worry about.
• Wait for the test to finish.
• If the test is successful, head over to 'Calibration' and click on 'First Layer Calibration'.
  Run through the calibration.
• When prompted, make sure you select 'NO' and use the default value (0mm). Your old offset could cause the nozzle to collide with the bed.
• You may need to adjust the physical height of the Pinda Probe if you find that the nozzle is still too high when at -2mm on 'adjusted z height'.
• If you are struggling to get a consistent first layer. You should rerun your mesh bed levelling in the calibration menu.

Reference CAD

• Revo Prusa Mini Reference CAD
• Strain Relief Clips

Compliance

• Revo Prusa Mini EC
• Revo Prusa Mini UKCA

• Slide the cable management arm into position over the wiring loom and secure it using an M3x20mm screw.
• Make sure the wiring isn't obstructing the carriage when at max position on the X-axis (180mm).

• Move the Toolhead to the end of the X-axis and make sure there is sufficient length in your wiring loom and bowden tube.

• When you have sufficient slack, reattach the wiring loom to the gantry with some cable ties.

• Reposition the fan and secure it with the remaining M3 x 20 screw.

Cable Orientation

• Turn Revo HeaterCore anti-clockwise to orient cables. Turning clockwise will cause the spring to disengage.

Connections

• Fan: Molex Micro-Fit 3.0, 2 pin vertical
• Heater: Molex Micro-Fit 3.0, 2 pin horizontal
• Temperature sensor: Molex Micro-Fit 3.0, 2 pin horizontal
• Assembly is supplied with 1m cables to connect to mainboard

Materials

• Heatsink: Aluminium (black anodised)
• Nut: Nylon
• HeaterCore: Alumina, Bronze
• Fan shroud: Polycarbonate

Volumes & Dimensions

Assembly Guide

• Attach the spring to the groove on the bottom of the Heatsink.

• Attach the HeaterCore to the HeatSink and spring assembly.
• A slight twisting motion may be required.

• Screw the Nozzle into Heatsink, it should slide freely through the HeaterCore.
• There is no need to use tools, this step should be done using your hands only. Hot-tightening is also not required.
• If you are following this guide to change nozzles after use ensure the assembly has cooled down to below 50°C before attempting this step!

• Attach fan and fan duct to the HeatSink. No Fixings Required.
• Make sure the fan sticker is facing towards the HeatSink.

• Insert collet and collet clip into the top of the HeatSink.

• Screw the nut onto the top threaded section of the HeatSink. Typically this is done after mounting. For details regarding the mounting specification please see Revo Micro Datasheet

• The fan runs on 5V. To ensure the correct voltage is supplied from your mainboard, you should plug in the regulator board as shown to ensure your outputted voltage is correct.
• Failure to use the regulator board may result in damage to the fan.

The colour of the HeaterCore thermistor wire has recently changed from white to blue. If your HeaterCore has a white thermistor cable. Please refer to the diagram below.

• Attach the Heater and Thermistor extension cables.

Upgrade Guide

• To begin, you need to make sure you have this part printed in advance:

• Do not begin disassembling your printer until you have printed this part or you risk being unable to complete the upgrade!
• Move your extruder to roughly the centre of your bed and around 100mm above the build plate before starting the upgrade, this will give you easier access to the extruder.

• You should also ensure there is no filament loaded and that the printer is unplugged from the power source before starting.
• You should also place a cloth or piece of fabric over your heat bed to give it some protection in case you drop something onto it.
• Use the 2.5mm hex key to remove the screw holding the part cooling fan in place and then carefully twist the fan upwards as you remove it. This will help ensure you do not strain the wires.
• It is a good idea to keep your screws in a small container while you are working on the printer so that you don't lose them!

• Loosen the upper fitting and remove the Bowden tube from the HotEnd. You can use a wrench to get a better grip on the fitting.

• Remove the screw that holds the cable management arm in place. Remove the arm and set it aside, you will need it later.

• Remove the screw that connects the pinda arm to the heatsink.

• Remove the screw that sits underneath the fan.

• Remove the screw above the fan which holds the heatsink.
• The whole HotEnd assembly will now be loose, so be careful.

• Now with the HotEnd assembly loose, you can remove the final fan screw. You can leave the fan where it is, as we will be reusing it in the next few steps.

• Start taking the heater and thermistor out of the cable sleeve and place the Prusa HotEnd on the heatbed for now, we will handle the wiring later.
• You should also cut the cable ties holding the sleeve to the x-axis now.

• If you haven't done so already, thread the screws into the printed part and then back out. At least once for each hole on the part. This will physically create the threads and make the part easier to attach to the carriage. If you are using the square nut version of the STL, you should slot these in now.
• It should be easy to screw them in and out, if you're finding it difficult, the hole is probably too small and your printer may be over extruding.
• Be very careful not to over thread the fan mounting holes as you risk cracking the printed part.

• Remove the Revo Micro fan and then thread the Revo Micro into the printed part. You can remove the nozzle and unclip the HeaterCore before you do this if you find it easier.
• You should be able to thread it sufficiently tight with just your fingers. Just make sure it feels secure and not loose/wobbly. A good check is to see whether you can unscrew the nozzle without the heatsink moving.

• Position the mount and make sure the HeaterCore wires are orientated through the gap under the fan, like so:

• Once in position, secure the mount to the carriage.

• With the Revo Micro secured, now we must reattach the Bowden tube. You can cut the existing tube as shown here, but you may wish to use a fresh piece of PTFE tubing if you have some spare.
• If using a fresh piece you will need to add a brass olive from your Prusa Mini spares bag to one end of the tube. The tube should be around 300mm in length.
• Cut the tube just above the brass olive:

• Try to cut into the tube as straight as possible and make sure the tip of the tube is circular and not squashed. Rework it back into shape if needed. You can use a scrap of filament to make sure it isn't squashed. The filament should pass through easily.

• Remove the collet clip and feed the Bowden tube into the top of your Revo Micro. Replace the collet clip once the tube is in place.

Wiring

• Now you just need to swap over the heater and thermistor wires.
• Start by plugging in your extension cables as follows:

• The colour of the HeaterCore thermistor wire has recently changed from white to blue. If your HeaterCore has a white thermistor cable. Please refer to the diagram below.

• Remove the screw holding the mainboard housing together and remove the top covers.

• Remove the old heater and thermistor wires from the sleeve all the way down to the board.
• Then route the new extension cables through the sleeve all the way down to the board.

• Next you need to swap over the heater and thermistor.
• At this point, you should still have the old heater and thermistor plugged into the board.
• The illustration below shows the location of the terminals but if in doubt please refer to Prusa's documentation.

• Unplug the HotEnd Heater first. The whole terminal should pull away.
• Unscrew the Heater connections from the terminal using a small flathead screwdriver and replace them with the Revo Heater extension cable (black with red ferrules). Then plug the terminal back into the board.
• Don't worry about mixing up the heater wires, heaters don't have a polarity.
• Then, unplug the thermistor. You will need to press on the small tab on the side as you pull to release it. Replace it with the Revo thermistor.
• If using the standard extension cables, the thermistor cable doesn't have the same orientation tab as the original cable. Thermistors do not have a polarity though, so you can plug it in either way around.
• Tidy up any excess cable using cable ties and close the housing.